Malaysian food may not be the top-of-mind when it comes to MICHELIN-starred dining, but Seroja is set to change that. Still, its distinction lies beyond just the uniqueness of this cuisine choice, but is found in the soul of this restaurant. The name says it all, whether as the Malay word for the lotus flower or referring to the street where chef-founder Kevin Wong grew up.
Born out of his love for the Malay Archipelago, this restaurant highlights the bold flavours and spices of Singapore and Malaysia, reflected through a generous use of local produce, spices, and techniques. It all comes together in the Nusantara set menu, which may look familiar to those who grew up with the same influences Chef Kevin did.
Though mentions of ingredients like village chicken broth may signal something simple, it’s nothing but. In the menu, it is the accompaniment to braised beef tripe and cheeks, which creates a harmonious pairing that teeters between the humility of Malaysian cooking and the refinement of upscale cuisine. It’s a consistent element throughout all of the dishes, including the betel leaf noodle in ulam dressing and mudcrab, duck percik from Bidor with rawon sauce, and even the white and black sesame muah chee.
With only 24 seats available, it’s best to plan and reserve, especially if diners want to catch the best seats in the house. They’re the 13 along the counter overlooking the open kitchen, placing guests right in the middle of the action, the centrepiece of the airy dining space with all its curvy contours mimicking the archipelago’s topography. But that’s not where the reverence for the land stops. Seroja works with farmers, craftsmen, and artisans from all over Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia, cementing its Southeast Asian distinction as more than mere novelty, but a reverential identity.
